Saturday, 14 April 2012

Pages 23-24


(continued from previous page) ...that adrenalin rush that sends your body thrashing around the place go and see ‘Let's Talk Daggers’, if you don't enjoy hectic gigs, give them a go anyway, I'm pretty sure you'll love it, to me there is no better band to see live. The new EP, 'Winter' is filled with extreme excitement in an instant, personally the third track, 'Have a Gabble' is my favourite, it's filled with intense shouts and screams. ‘Let's Talk Daggers’ aren't just some awful hardcore wannabe band created by nerdy, sweaty, overly skinny teenagers, these guys have so much talent, After having a listened to their demos tracks for the album I'm very excited to go out and get it, you can buy all the tracks from itunes. Give them a listen, check their tour dates and merch at http://www.facebook.com/letstalkdaggers


Gold Panda  http://www.facebook.com/iamgoldpanda

Gold Panda, also known as Derwin is an amazing musician, intriguing sounds that sink deep into your soul, with tracks making you feel as calm as the Dalai Lama and tracks that make you feel as powerful as Obama. The album ‘Lucky Shiner’ has such a wide range of sounds all creating amazing songs, that work well together on the album and sound very different too. It starts with his former single ‘You’, and ends with a similar version of the song, Making a loop with ‘Marriage’, as warm as a black road on a hot summers day, ‘Same Dream China’ is enhanced with the echoing of marimbas and xylophones creating an altogether masterpiece. ‘I’m With You But I’m Lonely’ has finger pianos treated and distorted until they sound like Fish Bones snapping under great pressure. The album is one of the few albums i would put in my top ten but everything about it is great. Check out Gold Panda at http://www.facebook.com/iamgoldpanda


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Pages 27-28



One to WATCH - Chloe Gews
Up and coming textile designer Chloe Glews has given AU magazine an exclusive insight into the thoughts and aspirations behind one of London’s young design students and how she hopes to make it in the future.


What made you decide to do a BA Hons Degree in Textile Design?

I have always enjoyed experimenting with colour and pattern, and found that textiles encouraged this more than any other area of art and design. I also have a great passion for illustration and textiles enables me to incorporate my individual, conceptual style of drawing. The idea of designing and creating fabrics has just always appealed to me.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

I’m really lucky to live so central in London, and Shoreditch (where I live) has so many amazing shops, boutiques, galleries and exhibitions. It’s impossible not to find inspiration! There is so many cool people around, everyone is so into fashion and interiors, and there are so many unique and differing individual styles. I just love being here and wondering around London, surrounded by interesting people and places.

How do you translate this inspiration through to your work?

I always start any project by drawing, I tend not to do secondary research until I’ve got a concept or an idea in mind. It’s very easy to copy others and come up with unoriginal designs if you start with secondary research. I just go with what I find interesting, take photos and draw. I often take colour schemes from photos that I’ve taken, rather than colours that are on trend. From my drawings I create pattern and come up with my initial concept.


What are your favourite textiles techniques to use?

I adore printing as it directly incorporates both colour and pattern. Heat transfer printing is always a favourite of mine! It’s so unpredictable you can come out with some amazing pieces, it keeps it fun and interesting. Currently I am learning new screen printing techniques such as foils and flocking, which is really exciting.

As a young designer how do you plan to distinguish yourself from competition in the industry?

Most of the time I tend to fall into the right concept, I don’t force it, which can be difficult when working towards a deadline. But letting things progress can often lead to the most original and inspiring work, and I never try to adhere to current trends in fashion or textiles. When you create original work in this way, you can create unique pieces that stand out from the many other designers who design towards trends. I feel that my work is always very illustrative, this doesn’t always appeal to everyone but it is unique and different. It stands out.

What valuable information has CSM taught you on your course so far?

That if you want to try something new, you do it on your own initiative. Uni is all about independent learning, and CSM really expects your passion to drive you as a student. If I want to try something I have to experiment and not wait to be shown. There are always technicians around, but they are always in such high demand from all the other students that if you wait you will just waste your own time. Doing things yourself can help you learn more effectively, and you may even stumble across a new technique or effect that is original and unique to your own work. And Central St Martins is such an inspiring and competitive environment to be in, it teaches you to learn and compete with your peers and to take inspiration from all areas of art and design.

Who would you love to collaborate with in the future?

My ambition is to work with Erdem or Givenchy. There’s so many other design houses that I would feel privileged to work with. From seeing the work of other students at CSM, I would feel equally as privileged to collaborate with many of them.

Where do you see yourself once you have finished your degree?
I’m currently working on finding internships and voluntary work to progress my knowledge of the industry. I’m also working on my own project outside of university work, which I think I will really benefit from. By gaining this experience, I hope that once I graduate I will be working for a fashion or interiors company designing printed fabrics for them. I understand that the demand for such jobs is extremely high and competition is outstanding. You have to work from the bottom up and I intend to do so. I think that’s the way I will progress, learn and get to the position in my working life that I hope to be in.

Pages 29-30


Creating Colour From Gray

Here at AU Magazine we can’t hide our love for the Queen of Mash-Up, Louise Gray! So who better to use as the inspiration for our issue illustrations than the lady herself. Creative director Laura Athey has developed a capsule collection from trying to take forward many of Louise Gray’s mannerisms and ideas. The collection is based on hypnotic prints and tries to convey the idea of Mash-Up to the max!

Pages 31-32


Pages 33-34


Lucas Nascimento
Hot Street Graffiti of Brazil Explodes over London Fashion


São Paulo's Lucas Nascimento is one of the hottest new talents on the London Fashion scene. His inovative use of new techniques pushes the boundaries of modern knitwear creating amazing results. Au Magazine interviewed Lucas’ creative director Nora Wong to find out more about the processes this exciting fashion label.

Where do you and Lucas get inspiration for your designs from?

Inspiration can come from anywhere on a daily basis when you live in a city as diverse as London! We travel a lot so the different landscapes, textures, people all feed into the designs in some way.


How to you translate this inspiration to artworks?

The Autumn/Winter 2012 has some reference to skateboarding culture which is a big thing in Brazil, where Lucas grew up. We were looking at a lot of graffiti and this subculture of tagging which ended up being translated into 3-colour jacquards, using combinations of all the yarns from the collection to create something beautifully textural and not too literal.

What processes do you use to create your artworks?

The knitting technique is called jacquard. It's a lot of trialling yarn combinations, colour combinations and tensions until you are happy with the final fabric. The graffiti dresses in the AW12 collection were also all very engineered - ie the artwork matches across the seams of the panels of the dress. It is a time consuming thing because you have to calculate and program, stitch for stitch, the artwork to match each pattern piece. Very mathematical!

How important are your artworks to your collections?

I think they are very important and often pull the different directions of the collection together.
For instance in the AW12 collection, the graffiti jacquards combined all yarns from the collection in one piece so they were visually very important to hold the collection together.

How do you usually decide on your colour ways?

Lucas loves colour! He loves to experiment with colour combinations and it is never something he is afraid to use. He is also very intuitive so he generally knows what he wants from the beginning.

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